How to Make a Custom Fishing Pole

Building a custom fishing pole requires steady hands and patient attention, but the result is a rod built exactly to suit, at a reasonable price. Planning and preparation are the keys to success. The project requires some tools, but a workshop full of equipment is not necessary. Materials for rod building are readily available. A novice rod builder who takes his time and follows instructions can produce a rod that will fish well and last for years. Successfully building a custom fishing pole can lead to making more specialized rods at home.

Instructions

1 Select a blank for the rod that is an appropriate length and weight for the type of fishing you plan to do. Outdoor outfitting companies sell blanks and complete kits, and some rod-making companies sell blanks.
2 Locate the spine of the blank by placing the tip on a hard surface and rolling the blank in your fingers. The blank will "jump," indicating which way the blank's natural bend goes. Mark the top of the natural bend with a piece of masking tape. This will be the top of your rod.
3 Mix a small amount of epoxy in the mixing bowl and use it to mount the tip top to the end of the rod. Align the tip top with the top of the blank's spine.
4 Make a wrap of masking tape on the outside of the blank where the reel seat will fit. Mark the top of the reel seat on the center line. Align this with the spine of the blank. Glue the reel seat in place with epoxy. If there is a separate slip ring at the bottom of the reel seat, glue it to the butt end with epoxy.
5 Use the rat tail file to ream out the cork handle so that it fits snugly in place over the blank and against the reel seat. Use epoxy to glue the cork handle in place. If the cork handle does not fit snugly, build up the blank with masking tape wraps before gluing the cork handle in place. The cork handle must fit well, with just enough space to allow glue between the surfaces.
6 Use the flat file to smooth any rough edges on the guides. Align the stripping guides with the blank's spine, and space them on the blank. For a seven-foot rod, place the first guide 4 inches from the rod tip, the second at 9 inches, the third at 14 inches, the fourth at 19.5 inches, the fifth at 25.5 inches, the sixth at 32.5 inches, the seventh at 40.5 inches and the eighth at 50 inches. Place the snake guide closest to the handle. Secure the guides with thin strips of masking tape. If desired, attach the hook keeper to the underneath side of the blank, near the handle, and secure it with masking tape. Using the wrapping thread, secure the guides to the blank. Start each wrap about 2/16 to 3/16 of an inch from the end of the foot. Bring the free end of the thread over the top of the blank. Wrap the thread smoothly and tightly around the foot of the guide, then clip the thread. Finish each wrap with the whip finisher, leaving the loose end of thread concealed under the wrap.
7 Cut V-shaped notches in both ends of the cardboard box. This will hold the rod while you apply thread sealer, and while the sealer is drying. Mix the thread sealer, and apply it with a small brush to cover the thread wrappings. Apply a smooth, even coat, and do not allow the sealer to drip. After the sealer is applied, the rod must be rotated one quarter turn every 15 minutes for two hours, or until completely dry.

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